Clothes for Lounging

I made this cardigan, leggings, and tunic/dress over the Christmas holiday, with dreams of lounging around like I lived in an alpine ski lodge.

Ohh, the optimism of early winter - it seems so fun to imagine you are curled up near a roaring fire! (By now, the joy of winter is long since gone - but winter isn’t! I reread a post yesterday from last April 15th when I was complaining that schools had just been shut down because of a massive snowstorm! That’s a month and a half more winter still to go!)

The cardigan is the Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan. This syle of cardigan is really popular in RTW stores here this year, so I was happy that Jalie had a pattern! Basically, the front is a lined L-shape, and folds back on itself to create a big draped pocket.

It’s VERY comfortable to wear, and perfect for winter… except that it’s made from jersey, and therefore isn’t actually that warm. It gives the ILLUSION of warmth though, which is somehow enough! 

Thanks to this cardigan and my Lola dresses, I’ve developed the habit of walking around school with my hands in absolutely gigantic low pockets. Hmmm, hip-height pockets? With hand balled up inside? Not exactly figure-flattering, but damn, it’s cosy and comforting! (Not a coincidence, I think, that both patterns are from Canadian designer’s winter collections!)

Round the back, the cardigan does an excellent job covering up. Here I’m actually wearing it over a tunic-lenth tee, which is why there is a wide black band… but even on it’s own, the cardigan is a nice length for wearing over skinny jeans or leggings. 

As for construction… must have been pretty easy, because i don’t remember it! It uses a fair chunk of fabric, and I think works best in a a drapy knit with some body. My lining is sparkly, which makes me smile!

(BTW, this faux-knit print is on my all-time favourite Fabricland material, and I’ll by pretty much whatever they print on this fabric! It’s spongy and substantial, with lots of stretch, and it’s my favourite jersey to sew with. These dresses are made with the same substrate (Tiramax, Tiramisu), and I’ve got more in the stash waiting to be used!)

Here’s the tunic dress thing that I’m wearing underneath… I made this when Leila (Three Dresses) was visiting. It’s a Kirstin Kimono tee, lengthened. It’s some kind of poly knit, which means it hangs well and doesn’t ride up over leggings, even without a slip. That’s a win in my books! 

Finally, the leggings. Betcha know what pattern this is!? Cake Espresso, of course! I got obsessed with the idea of having red leggings, and even decided to break my one-year streak of not buying RTW just so I could get them. There I was, wandering around with money in my hand, and I couldn’t find any red leggings in stores! What? I spend so much time with kids that I thought bright leggings were popular this year, but I guess they only come in kid sizes. Disappointing! 

In the end, I found some red performance knit at Fabricland. The lady who cut it for me said that it wicks sweat and she used this fabric to make leotard onesies for her son and husband to wear under their hockey gear! (There must be a more manly name for that than leotards, right?) It’s poly/spandex, and feels like workout wear… but it does make good leggings! It’s got the 4-way stretch that I think is crucial. The red is a bit vibrant though, so they haven’t gotten as much wear as I hoped. 

(Similarly, I long for fun patterned leggings… but then I think, “What on earth would I wear them with?” ALL my dresses are patterned, and so are most of my tops. If I thought they’d get worn, I’d make striped and polkadot leggings in a heartbeat!)

In other news….

My sewing room is cluttered with unfinished projects these days… my quilt is still half-quilted, my Archer is half-cut out, I’ve got a Lekala knit dress cut but not sewn, and a Blue Feb project that is officially late! Instead I’ve been watching a lot of TV and going to bed early. I’m trying to be easy on myself, but I’m starting to think maybe I just need a kick in the butt. UFOs get me down, and I have too many holding me back! 

What do you have on the go this weekend?

Sew Dolly Clackett!

One of my favourite aspects of the online sewing community is the diversity in what we choose to sew. At least half the blogs I follow are filled with things I would never sew for myself - but I’m so inspired and motivated to see other people sewing what they love! 

At the top of the pack is Dolly Clackett - aka. Roisin. She churns out super-cute fit-and-flare dresses at the speed of light, and always pairs them with the most twee and adorable shoes. Completely opposite to what I sew and wear, but damn, she makes it look FUN to get dressed! I’ve always admired that Roisin described herself and a blend between fashion blogger and sewing blogger - she is dedicated to her everyday look and she’s (rightly) proud of it! I love the colours and prints she chooses, and the fact that she might be the only person I know who sews patterns more repeatedly than I do! (Plus, you know, she used to be a teacher, so she must be cool! ;)

All of which is my way of saying: Roisin is awesome. Awesome enough to inspire Sarah, a local blogger friend of mine, to create a sewing challenge in honour of Roisin’s upcoming wedding! 

Here are the rules: 

• The contest will run from February 23 - April 23, 2014, ending one month prior to Roisin’s wedding.  


• Roisin will be judging all entries and picking 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place. 


• Contestants can earn extra entries sewing with her favourite patterns, but any dress pattern that emulates Roisin’s style is great. 


• Only dresses made during the contest are eligible. 


• The goal is to create a dress in homage to her lovely style! 

There are some great prizes: 

• £50 gift voucher for Berylune


• By Hand London Anna and Elisalex patterns


• Christine Haynes Emery pattern


• Colette Patterns pattern of your choice


• $75 Hart’s Fabric gift certificate


• Sewaholic pattern of your choice

If you are interested in participating, check out Sarah’s Blog, Rhinestones and Telephones, for more details. I’m dying to see how people style their dresses - Does anyone have shoes to rival Roisin’s? Can they find a red door to pose in front of? Myself, I’m awfully tempted to finally buy the BHL Anna dress pattern… especially if I could make it in a knit! ;) 

The Popularity of Patterns

Every year I love seeing which patterns take off and become big hits. It’s so interesting to see what catches the zeitgeist! I even wrote about it two years ago here. I overlooked one really important factor when I wrote that post though: The influence of bloggers themselves! If I had my own pattern company, I’d work hard to get my pattern sewn by that handful of bloggers that can make anything look fabulous and fashionable. (Not that those bloggers are aiming to advertise - just that they are so lovely, talented, and widely-read that they inspire us all!) 

A great example of a pattern that’s taken off is the Doe and Deer Plantain. Makes sense: it’s free, quick and easy, and the competition inspired a lot of creativity. It seems like a stroke of marketing genius by Doe and Deer, and I’m glad for her! 

I must admit, I am one of the people who only decided to make the pattern once it was popping up everywhere on blogs! I mean, it’s quite similar to the Grainline Scout tee which I said was one of my favourites last year… Do I really need another t-shirt pattern? Well, no, but it’s still fun! 

This is my second version, made from a really lovely bamboo knit from a local fabric shop called Needlework. It’s got perfect weight and drape, and I would sew with nothing but this jersey if I could! (one warning though - it shrank like mad in the prewash!) I’d bought some odd amounts of the two stripes with plans to make a colour-blocked dress, but I’m happy I went with the tee instead. 

Unfortunately, mid-winter is not the best time for a short-sleeved tee, so I’ve been wearing my Plantain with this draped cardi I made for Red October. I’m always happy when I can mix and match my me-mades! (BTW, I’m wearing my Cake Espresso leggings/pants in these pics, so I’m handmade head to toe!) 

I’ll definitely be making more Plantains… possibly with a little less ease around the hips. I was scared of it being too tight, so I added a bit of width to the pattern, but I’d like to try a slimmer version to see if it flatters!

Have you made a Plantain? I’m curious: did you want the pattern as soon as it was released, or were you swayed by the lovely versions that started popping up? In general, what convinces you to spring for a new pattern? The line drawing or the blogosphere? if it is blogs, do you try to emulate people with a similar style/figure, or does everyone inspire you? 

ps. Oh, and one last question: I’ve got 1.5 m of the wide/narrow strip in black and white. Should I make fun graphic leggings, a drape cardigan like this red one, of some kind of dress?

Maria of Denmark's new Olivia Oversized Tee... and Cake Espresso PANTS!

Well hi there! I’ve got two new makes to talk about today - both of which are patterns I was lucky enough to test! 

First up, Maria of Denmark’s brand new Olivia Oversized Tee. It’s a loose-fit kimono sleeve top with a snug band at the bottom. It’s really fast to sew, and has a nice rounded v neckline! 

Now, I love the way this top feels.. but looking at the pics I probably could have gone down at least a size! I made it in slubbed tissue knit which is slightly sheer. Because it’s sheer, I have to wear a cami underneath… but because the fabric is so fine it catches on the cami underneath and clings in odd places. Next time I think I’ll use a medium-weight fabric with some drape, and I think it will be perfect!

I only had 1m of this fabric, so I had to piece the back and cut each half slightly off grain. If you had narrower hips or cut the shorter sleeve version, you’d be just fine with 1m. 

Can I just say how much I LOVE the DSLR and 35mm lense that my Dad lent me? This pic was taken in the middle of a long dark hallway on an overcast day, and it still looks full of light! I didn’t alter a thing about any these photos - they are straight out of the camera! 

Now for the next project - skinny pants made from the Sewing Cake Espresso leggings pattern! I tested this pattern back in the summer, and I’ve made … oh man, at least 8 pairs since then? I’d been wondering if the draft-your-own-leggings pattern would make a good starting point for pants, and the answer is YES! 

Espresso leggings are made with just one pattern piece, with no side seam. To start off, I cut one side of the pattern, then I slide it about 1” over to add an inch of ease all down the leg. I also added some ease below the knee so that they wouldn’t be skin tight at the ankle. Basically, it looks like this! 

(I don’t think I had cut the waist yet…)

Now, the fabric is a really important factor here. I use a very stretchy twill with at least 30% stretch. These pants really wouldn’t work without it! That said, when I sewed them up, they were TIGHT! 

Time for a quick save: Tuxedo stripes! 

Tuxedo stripes: The design feature that says “My thighs are bigger than I thought!” 

I sliced down the side, and spliced in a 2.5” strip. I figure that after the seam allowances, it ended up adding about 1.5” of ease to the pants. Next time I’ll add that ease in when I cut out the fabric. 

I have to say, I’m really pleased with these pants! They are an almost identical knock-off of the first pair of skinny pants I bought (back in Japan, when I wouldn’t dream of wearing skinny pants except to tuck into high boots!) I’m not convinced that it’s the most flattering silhouette on me, but come on, who really cares? 

If you haven’t ever made pants, or if you are looking for a modern skinny fit pants pattern, I definitely recommend this hack! (BTW, can we talk about how terrible the term “skinny jeans” is? a) They rarely make people look skinnier b) I HATE HATE HATE that I regularly hear kids under 10 talk about their “skinny pants” because I”m afraid in their minds it connects to the idea that skinny is good.)

Now I’m heading off to a fabric swap organized by a local art collective - sure, I’m excited for free fabric, but I’m mostly scoping out the sewing scene! Maybe I’ll recruit some new people for our local Sewcialist group! ;) 

All the bits and pieces

I’ve been having a bit of a sewing block lately, and a blogging block too, so I’ve decided to make a clean sweep and blog about all the boring little things I’ve made or done recently! Buckle up folks - this promises to be bland! (But hopefully cathartic too - I often find I need to get things off my chest before I can settle down and feel relaxed and creative!) 

1. While in Ottawa over Christmas, I stopped by Fabrications, which is now the official stockist of Cake Patterns in Canada! It was fun to see Cake patterns on a store shelf. I told Steph about Fabrications ages ago when she was looking for online/in person indie fabric stores in Canada, so I felt like a proud matchmaker to see that it all worked out! (Double bonus: When i got dressed that morning, I realised that one of the two tops I’d packed was a Cake Pavlova, so I got to be a total pattern fangirl!) 

2. Lately I’ve been wanting all my skirts SHORTER! I mean, if I’m going to wear leggings under every skirt ever, then why not have a little more fun? I hacked of the bottom of this double knit skirt (seen on the right in MMM two years ago). It was actually my first ever knit project, and one of the first things I ever made! Now that it’s short it is getting a lot more wear! I tend to wear leggings and top around the house on the weekends, but having a basic skirt like tis to pull on when I leave the house allows me to avoid the dreaded leggings-as-pants! 

3. I remade the Jalie raglan top in the drapy turquoise rayon (worn with the skirt above). I’d made a version in cheap jersey to match the bacon cowl my sister knitted me, and a lot of you suggested that the crappy fabric might be the reason I wasn’t happy with the fit. I do think it works better, though I’ll probably keep playing with the fit. 

4. Refashioning. Along with shortening the skirt, I’ve also been digging around my finished projects for things I could remake or improve. I’d make this Renfrew dress two years ago, and ugh - look how frumpy! i never loved this dress. I’m much happier with the new shorter version. I also turned the back neckband to the inside, which makes the neckline a little more open and makes it feel a little less casual to me. Really simple changes, but now it’s getting worn more than ever! 

5. Digging up old clothes from my days in Japan!  When I started to think about shorter skirts, I remembered these Japanese dresses that I haven’t worn much lately. (Except for the polka dot one - I wear that weekly! ‘Cause it’s knit, lined, with chiffon underskirt, and dammit, it’s got polkadots!)

There are a few issues with these clothes though - the colourful dotty one shows half my bra now that I’ve become magically better endowed, and the two on the right are actually a bit short in the rear. No allowances for a big tush in Japanese clothing, let me tell you! (My recent navy and green polkadot dress started as a knockoff of the colourful spotty one, but I decided not to give a bubble hem in the end.)

What interests me is that all of these clothes are 3-6 years old, but seem pretty on trend now in Canada! Further proof that the Japanese do everything first in fashion! (Including colourful jeans, big top knot buns, and skinny pants on men! So interesting to see all that trickle across the ocean several years later!) 

6. Plantain - because who can resist a sewing fad? I sewed this up on the weekend, and yup, it’s a great! Not really so different from a Scout knit tee, but hey, that’s one of my fav patterns. I made the front in a drapey knit that I got at a local fabric swap, and the back is some crappy cheap fabric from either Girl Charlee or Fabric.com. You can see on the elbow patch how see through the stripes are! On the other hand, my tee *did* get a compliment from an 8 year old girl today at school! (Dangers of hanging out with kids - you start having the same fashion sense!) 

7. Wearable Wardrobe Burnout. I’ve been finding it strange lately that I’m feeling burned out on my practical wardrobe just as lots of people are getting excited about Colette’s Wardrobe Architect project or setting goals to sew more wearable clothes. I’ve got things I’d like to make, but lately when I think of cutting them out and sewing them, I just think “Why bother? I’ve got 5 of those already…” I even have another Plantain cut out in really lovely red stripe bamboo jersey, and i just can’t be bothered to spend 30 min sewing it together. 

New patterns aren’t the answer either - I’m scared silly of all the pieces in Archer, and the thought of cutting them all out in fabric just overwhelms me. I mean, how on earth does one not lose all the tiny pieces in the process? Even the thought of finding and using the right interfacing seems too much. On weeknights I tell myself I’ll work on it when I have a full day to sew, and on weekends I’ve been avoiding it by working on my quilt! 

The other day my local friend K-line posted asking how on earth she could speed up her meticulous process - well, friends, I need to ask the opposite! How do I get started and stay organised on projects that are going to take more than 2 hours? I could really use some advice! Where do you start? How do you keep track? And how do you get over irrational sewing-based fears?