Top 5 Reflections of 2013

Where to start? 

1. I’ve gained confidence. 

A year ago I felt nervous proposing these Top 5 lists… but since then, I’ve organised #sewingdares, the Sewcial Bees (we’ll have another in late January, finally!) the Sewcialist Blog, started local Facebook groups, and met face-to-face with a lot of amazing bloggers! I’ve learned that Sewcialists like joining things, and they like being inspired and challenged. I don’t feel nervous anymore when I propose new ideas, and for an introvert like me, that’s a big deal! 

2. I am what I am. 

Hi. My name is Gillian, and I like sewing knits and using the same patterns repeatedly… and I think I’ve come to terms with that. I used to feel like I *should* be sewing more complicated things or learning couture skills… but why make clothes I don’t want to wear? I wear me-mades nearly every day, and often head to toe. I’ve got decades of sewing ahead of me, so I”m going to stop worrying and just enjoy what I like for for now. 

3. Maybe I’m not a beginner anymore? 

There was an interesting discussion a while back about what skill level we self-identify with, and it was a strange realization that I’m no longer a beginner! I feel confident discussing patterns, fabric and techniques with fabric store clerks or other sewists, and I can solve problems as they come up in my sewing. That said, I’m still terrified of lots of things, like silk, tailoring, and outerwear - I’m I”m going to challenge myself in a few of those areas in my 2014 goals!

4. Sewing is a fantastic hobby, and it keeps me sane. 

Can you remember what you did with your time before you sewed? I can’t! It is such a big part of how I define myself now! I feel happy as soon as I walk into my sewing room (and um, I pretty much demanded to have a sewing room when we moved!) 

5. You (yes, you!) are great.

I moved to a new city this year, and blissfully, didn’t have to worry about making new friends, because I have you! All of you Sewcialists make me smile on Twitter, IG, Flickr, and/or my ever-extending blog feed. There are a handful of you (and you know who you are!) who i talk to almost daily… certainly more than I talk to many of my local friends! You Sewcialists are a sarcastic, silly, kind and clever bunch, and you rock. Seriously, if any of you reading this haven’t joined Twitter or Instagram, I really suggest giving it a shot. I didn’t really “get” either platform until I made sewing friends, and now I’m hooked! 

Next up: Inspirations! 

BTW, if you are posting your own Top 5 lists, make sure you share a link to your blog over here! It’s a nice way to find new-to-you blogs and help other find you. I’ve loved going through and reading all the lists popping up!

Top 5 Misses of 2013

I really thought I didn’t have many misses this year.. but oh, boy, I do! The thing is, I’m not sad or disappointed by any of these things… just philosophically interested that they didn’t work out that way I thought! 

Bring on the fails! (In no particular order…) 

1. Grainline Hemlock Tee in the wrong fabric

Back in the summer, Leila, Heather and I decided to all try the free Hemlock tee pattern by Grainline… and their tops turned out beautifully! Mine however… UGH! 

Some combination of the stripes, the textures crinkle kersey, the lack of drape, and the boring colour made this one of the least attractive things I’ve sewn. So much so that I promptly chopped it up and made a kimono tee instead! 

I’ve worn it a bit in this new form… but the colour still turns me off. Boooring!!!!! I haven’t gone back to try Hemlock again… I think the  Scout tee also from Grainline works better with my shape! (After all, It made my Top 5 list!) 

2. Sharpied Skirt: 

Would you believe that this skirt has never once been worn? It is lacking a button, and hangs sadly in my closet! 

It’s made from Ikea fabric, and some of the polka dots are coloured in with Sharpie. I still love the concept… and I think I’d like wearing it… just somehow I haven’t! It’s a total knock-off of a skirt that Jen from Grainline made herself… and her’s made her Top 5 list, which has motivated me to give mine a chance to shine! I hereby promise to put a damn button it soon! 

3. Baggy Jeans!

In August I had a wonderful time repressing my anxiety about the new school year by sewing an entire fall wardrobe. The sewing process was really helpful and positive.. but the clothes themselves have barely been worn! In addition to the Sharpied skirt above, I also made simple jeans which both turned out to be too baggy and rarely worn: 

I made these ones with fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (bought with a birthday gift certificate from my dear sister Anne, in the bottom right of the pic!) I had so much fun trying out top-stitching for the first time… but this was during the phase where I was mistakenly adding too much ease to my pants pattern, and they came out totally baggy! I took them in a bit along the inner seam later on, but because of all the topstitching I couldn’t get them slim enough. I’m going to give them away soon! 

4. Sewcial Bee Top: Never once worn!

Back in the August Sewcial Bee, I made this: 

…and never wore it. It’s the fabric fault - too thin and no drape. I had fun making it though - I pleated the wide white stripes to make them narrower at the shoulders, and released the pleats to try making a flutter sleeve effect… it didn’t really work. Oh well - It was cheap Fabric.com fabric, and I had fun making it! 

5. Hummingbird Skirt

Now, I’ve made and loved a lot of versions of this skirt - it’s a brilliant pattern, and you all should try it! But I made this piped denim version thinking it would be a perfect wardrobe basic that would match everything.. .and instead, i’ve never once made an outfit with it that I liked! 

I blame the piping… it’s cute, it’s fun, I love my other piped version… but ERMAGERD guys, it’s PASTEL!!!!! I used a striped linen with lots of colours I love, but also a lot of pastel beiges, pnks etc. Agh! Those are just not my colours. In the end, I gave it away to a better home. Next spring I’ll make a blue denim version with no piping, and I’m sure it will get more wear! 

BONUS: The most fail-iest FAIL of all!!!

In the name of being truthful and presenting a realistic version of whatt happens in my sewing room, I present you with evidence of what happens when I attempt to draft from my own block: 

Did you hear the skreetching axe-murderer music that I hear in my head when I see this? Good! I had visions of creating a cute vintage style neckline and sweet gathered skirt.. and damn, something went very, very wrong. I even tried to save it my hacking off the bodice and making just a gathered drindl skirt…

Behold a hideously unflattering skirt with the most terrible gathering technique ever. This went straight in the garbage - not even a chance of rescuing this UFO! 

There we have it: just a few of my Fails from 2013! Some of these I knew would be disasters even as I sewed them… some I thought would be staples but just didn’t work out!

To be honest though, I sew such a huge amount of things that a fail or two a month doesn’t bother me. I often make a conscious decision to sew for the process, not the product - that’s when I use sewing as a substitute for yoga or meditation.

Sometimes I feel like I *ought* to buy better fabrics, take my time, learn new techniques and get better at sewing… but right now that doesn’t fit what I need from sewing. I need creative process, I need relaxation, and I need the whir of the machine to settle my mind. The outcome is some crappy clothes sometimes, and that’s ok! 

How do YOU feel about your failed projects? 

Share a link to your Top 5 of 2013 posts!

Now that the Top 5 lists are well underway, it’s time to share some linky love! 

If you are participating in the Top 5 lists this year, introduce yourself in the comments below and share a link to your blog… then take some time to explore each other’s posts! I think the Top 5 lists are a great way to get t know a new blogger quickly - in just a few posts you can get a real feeling for what they love about sewing!

On your marks… get set… link! 

Bacon Cowl, Jalie Raglan, and Green December Style Arc Pants!

Introducing my latest me-made outfit! 

Well, no strictly me-made… but handmade! Over the summer my sister Anne and I made a deal that she’d buy a bunch of fabric, I’d sew it into clothes for her, and she’d knit me a cowl in return! (I really did get the good end of that deal, but shhh! Don’t tell Anne!) 

The pattern is really cool, and I’m sure she’ll blog about it in more detail… but through some knitting magic is has a section with mitered corners where the stripes suddenly go another direction! Here’s how it looks: 

I like it a lot! Cosy and warm and great colours… although somewhere along the way it did earn the nickname “bacon cowl” on Twitter! I’m a bacon-eating semi-vegetarian though, so bacon is just fine by me! 

To wear with the cowl, I made up a Jalie raglan tee - My first Jalie pattern! So far, I’m a fan! It was easy to trace, went together well, and is the size it promised. 

When I cut it out, I deliberately didn’t worry about matching stripes… and what do you know? As I sewed it up, the stripes matched! I guess it was just meant to be. 

I like the fit through the shoulders and bust… but I’m confused by the fit over the hips. I was thrilled with the dramatic curve out over the hips while I was tracing it, because it reminded me of my beloved Mission Maxi pattern. I like a drapey top, I like curved hems, and I like t-shirts that cover my tush… and yet… it’s not very flattering, is it? It hitches up on the pants below, and catches in folds instead of draping down smoothly. I don’t want it tight (horrors!) but I think I need to take it in at least 1/2” or more from the waist down. What do you think? 

Along with the new cowl and new top, of course I had to have new pants as well! I made these (Style Arc Elle, what else?) from 1.2m of stretch twill ends from my local store, and I like them much more than I expected! I haven’t worn khaki green pants in years, but I used to love my olive green cargos. My husband thinks the green doesn’t work with the coral, but I wore it anyway! 

Bonus: I’m counting these pants as my #sewcialist Green December project!

In other news (because everything comes back to cats) we’re debating taking out 6mth kitty with us to my parent’s house when we go for Christmas. My parent’s cat will be hiding in their bedroom, and there will be three dogs staying downstairs… She’d have to stay in our bedroom, but we’d hang out with her a lot. Is bringing her a good chance to see if we can make her a travelling cat, or a horrible plan that will stress her out? The alternative is leaving her alone over night, which we’ve never done! What do you think, O Wise Cat Ladies?

Top 5 Hits of 2013

Ahhh, the first day of holidays! It is so very, very sweet. It’s been a day of lounging around and accomplishing very little. In classic teacher tradition, Jamie and I have both gotten sick the moment the pressure is off, so we’ve been wandering from couch to couch in a daze! Still, it’s lovely to have the time to just relax! 

It’s been a real joy to see so many Top 5 lists pop up in my blog reader this week! It’ time for me to weigh in… starting with my Top 5 favourite and most worn makes!  

1. Pants! (All the pants!) 

I’m pleased to report that I have officially got my money’s worth out of the Style Arc Elle pattern! 9 pairs and counting… and after experimenting with the amount of ease (too little, then too much) I like the fit of my most recent pairs. 

These polkadot ones are my favourite in terms of fit and fabric. The fabric has lots of stretch (at least 30%) so they fit snugly but comfortably, and don’t get baggy through the day! I’ve got another 3m of this fabric, so a non-polkadot pair will be coming up soon. 

2. Leggings! 

Making leggings was one of my Top 5 goals last year (as was making pants), and I’m very glad I gave it a shot! I’ve made multiple versions of two patterns (Style Arc and Sewing Cake) and they all get lots of wear! 

Along the way, I’ve learned to be really picky about the fabric I use. My favourite pair (by far) are the black Cake Espresso leggings above. It’s a great pattern, but the magic is really in the seriously stretchy 4-way stretch knit. I bought it at a second-hand shop, so there is no way of getting more, but I wear these once or twice a week! 

3. Kimono-Sleeve Knit Dress

This is such a basic dress, but I love wearing it! It’s a double knit so it doesn’t cling, and it has so many of my colours in it that I can wear it with half the cardigans in my closet. I can’t remember exactly what pattern I hacked to make it, but I just made a similar silhouette with Maria of Denmark’s Kimono tee pattern and it worked out well. 

4. Knit Scout Tee

I made this tee back in March, and it’s one of my most-worn garments. (In fact, I’m wearing a similar French terry version today!) It’s loose, drapey, and one of the rare tops I don’t feel the urge to wear a cardigan with! I also wear this flannel Scout tee made last year quite a bit - it’s so cosy and soft!

5. Mission Maxis

This is my favourite pattern of the year! 

I’ve made 4 versions of the maxi dress, plus one for Anne, and about 6 versions of the tank top, including this version I wore for the Waterloo Knitter’s Fair colour palette talk. 

It’s just the perfect loose-but-not-tentlike fit, and it works well with a whole range of knits. The front and back can be cut side-by-side on the fabric, so a maxi takes only 1.5m! 

FInal Thoughts:

In the end, this really became a list of 5 of my favourite patterns. Here’s how many times I’ve made these 5 patterns: 

Style Arc Elle Pants: 9 times

Cake Espresso Leggings: 2, with fabric for 2 more picked out

Maria of Denmark Kristen Kimono Tee: 6 times

Grainline Scout Tee: 5 times

Jamie Christina Mission Maxi: 10 times

That is a grand total of 32 garments made for myself from just these 5 patterns!  I wonder which patterns will dominate my sewing next year? 

Join me in posting your Top 5 lists for 2013!

Another year of sewing and blogging is almost over, and it’s time to celebrate all we’ve achieved. It’s time for the Top 5 of 2013 blog series!

Want to join in? It’s easy, and the rules are meant to be broken. Basically, between now and the new year, think back over the year and blog Top 5 lists about the following five topics: 

• Top 5 Hits: Favourite Creations, most worn or most loved


• Top 5 Misses: Sewing Fails, UFOs, worn once, or complete disasters


• Top 5 Reflections: What did you learn about yourself or sewing this year? 


• Top 5 Inspirations: What books, people, blogs, trends etc motivated you this year?


• Top 5 Goals for the New Year

(Here’s last year’s logo - If you participated last year, I’d love to hear which goals you achieved or completely ignored in the past 12 months!)

I remember being so nervous that no one would join when I first proposed last year’s Top 5 blog series… but I shouldn’t have been! Over 40 people posted lists and it turned out to be a wonderful way to get to know more bloggers! (If you want to see who joined in, check out the list here!)

I think that sometimes in blogging it’s easy to get focused on finished makes or planning for the next project. Our blogs constantly reflect the new, but it’s also important to look back. If it takes 10 000 hours to become a master at something, we’re getting closer every year! (At the end of my 10 000 hours, I will be a master of stretchy clothes. How about you?) 

So, are you in? Grab the graphic here, and start writing! You can post anytime, and change the topics/numbers/sequence as you see fit. Have fun!

Evolving Personal Style

I’m at an annoying crossroads in my sewing. I’m tired of the same of patterns, and my wardrobe of me-mades is feeling a little dull. I’m itching to tweak my style, but I’m not quite sure where to start! 

As of New Years it will be one year since I bought new RTW clothes. I’ve sewn piles and piles of clothing this year, and I have a well-stocked stash… it’s just not inspiring me to actually SEW right now! Must get back the spark before the winter holidays, so that I can have a solid sewcation! 

I’ve been thinking a lot about my “style” (though it sounds pompous to call it that!) before and after starting to sew, and how it has continued to change! I’ve pulled together some pictures - Wanna take a look? 

Pre-Sewing: 2008-2011

While I lived in Japan, I liked: 

• v-neck sweaters (often with a white lace cami underneath)


• blazer-type casual jackets with a scarf


• hoodies


• wide-legged dress pants at work, with long, quite fitted t-shirts or blouses


• full skirts


• straight or flared jeans (skinny pants were popular in Japan, but I wasn’t sold!)

At this point, my work wardrobe was relatively formal (for a teacher), and I was thrilled any time I found clothes that actually fit in Japan! Not a time to be picky about fashion. If it fits, wear it! And heaven forbid I lose or gain weight when I could only buy pants on my biannual trips to Canada…

Early Sewing: 2012 

We move back to Canada and got married in summer 2011… about 6 months later I started sewing clothes. As these shots from Me-Made May show, I started out making and wearing: 

• endless quilting cotton dresses, with fitted bodices and a-line skirts


• lots of woven tanks: Pendrells and Sorbettos


• high-waisted a-line skirts 

Sad as it is, I hardly wear any of this stuff now because I can’t stand that it doesn’t have stretch! I’ve gained a little weight since then, which doesn’t help, but mostly I fight these clothes constricting accross the shoulders, arms and bust. Plus the thought of wearing a non-stretch skirt around my ribcage just sounds tortuous now! Part of the change is also that I was supply teaching at the time, and wanted to present a professional look. Now that I’m steady at one school I’m less concerned! ;) 

This year: 2013

I clearly like: 

• stripes, florals and other prints


• coloured slim jeans


• Tiramisus, Tiramisus, and more Tiramisus! 


• cardigans. Always a cardigan, either draped or RTW hip-length

These are all outfits from Me-Made May 2013, and clothes I still wear often today, aside from the Tiramisus. I’m preferring straight cut skirts to full skirts these days, and liking my pants skinnier too. I really like wearing knit Scout tees and loose, long tees.

I’m trying to figure out where to go next with my sewing. Something more youthful and trendy, perhaps? Without going overboard, of course - no skin at school! ;)

Something more like this, perhaps? (Ignore the colours though! It’s just the styles I like.)

Here’s what I’m wanting these days: 

• sweater dresses with leggings (Lola with Espresso?)


• draped cardigans that are shorter at centre front, instead of longest at centre front (hack the pattern i always use?)


• slim pants that aren’t tight but aren’t baggy by the end of the day (I’ve gone back to my original clim version of Style Arc Elle, and have new pairs planned)


• loose raglan tees (Jalie pattern ordered, and a Papercut Sloppy Jo made!)


• long jersey draped cardigans (Jalie pattern also ordered!) 


• long, loose sweaters (not cardigans, for once!) so that I only have to pick one top to get dressed, not balance a tee and a sweater! (no pattern ideas for this! Help!) 

I’m also really enjoying a pair of khaki green pants that I made recently, which is a colour I haven’t worn in years. I like the earthiness of it though, and it’s nice to have a warm neutral instead of navy, black or grey. If you can believe it, I’m also starting to yearn for a few SOLID colour tee-shirts! (Help! Who am I becoming?!) 

Are you conscious of your style developing? What styles do you want to try next? And can you think of any patterns that I should try that might fit my new direction? 

Ps. After drafting this post, I cleaned out my closet and passed on some less-won items to my sister… and I’m feeling better already! Out with the old, in with the new!

Lazy Tips for Sewing Knits: Setting a Sleeve Flat

Confession: I really don’t think I’ve ever set in a woven sleeve properly. I ALWAYS have little gathers!

One of the many reasons that I love sewing with knits is that sewing sleeves is completely painless and foolproof. No gathered basting stitches, no fancy matching of notches…. just a couple of pins and one quick seam! 

The key to knit sleeves is that they are sewn in flat, before the side seam is sewn. If you’ve ever sewn a Renfrew, Lady Skater, or any other knit pattern I can think of, you’ll have tried this method. But just in case a complete knit newbie is reading this, or someone who has only tried knit kimono sleeves, I thought I’d explain how I handle the process! 

Step 1: Sew the shoulder seams, and finish the neckline. Lay out the shirt and sleeve with the right-side up. See how the armscye and sleeve curve are basically the same length but slightly different curves? 

Step 2: Use a pin to roughly mark the straight of the grain at the highest point of the sleeve cap. When you sew, this point will line up with the shoulder seam. 

Step 3: Flip the sleeve up so that it is right-sides together with the shirt. Re-pin through the shoulder seam and top of the sleeve cap. 

Step 4: Once you’ve pined at the shoulder seam, bring the corner of the sleeve down to line up with the armscye. I put a single pin in the corner at the start and end of each seam. (Actually, I usually don’t pin the corner where I start… I just hold it in place until I start to serge! Why put a pin in that I’ll just have to take out 3 seconds later?)

Remember how different the curves of the armscye and sleeve looked before? They magically look more similar now. I find the first 15cm or more lines up quite neatly, the over the top of the shoulder I might have to stretch the shirt to east in the sleeve. Once I have the shoulder seam pinned to the top of the seam, it’s pretty clear how much easing will have to happen and wear. Just stretch it and MAKE it fit! Don’t be too gentle - Show that knit who is boss! 

Step 5: Here’s what my seam looked like after serging! I don’t reinforce anything most of the time, nor do I use my sewing machine to reinforce the serging. I’ve been wearing my t-shirts steadily for a year, and never ever had problems with my 4-thread serger stitching popping open. 

Step 6: Here’s how my sleeve seam looks form the outside. Don’t worry if the seam looks a little wobbly or bubbly.. your shoulder should fill that out just fine!

Step 7: The most satisfying step! With right-sides together, sew up the sleeve sides of the t-shirt in one go! I like to start at the sleeve end, concentrating on lining up the seams under the armpit. 

After that, it’s time to finish the cuffs and hem, and you are done your shirt! I know some people like to finish the cuff flat before sewing up the sides… I prefer to do them after so that I don’t have to worry about perfectly lining up the edges of the cuff as I sew the sleeve.  

So how do you set in sleeves on a knit garment? Has anyone ever tried setting them in the round? Do you have any tips or tricks of your own? 

As always, my other Lazy Tips for Sewing Knits are gathered at the top of my blog page! I’m going to wrack my brain for new tips for the new year, so let me know if you have a question!

Honeycrisp Mittens Bloghop!

Well, I got a little ahead of myself this week and posted about my Honeycrisp Mittens before the official blog hop started! (Can you blame me? They are nice mitts!) Lucky for me that Mari from Disparate Disciplines is a forgiving girl! ;) 

If you are interested in how versatile the pattern is though, you’ll be able to check out versions by the following bloggers over the next few days: 

Brooke from Custom Style (who I think also got excited and posted early!) 

Winnie from Scruffy Badger Time

Amy from Sew Well

Rhonda from Rhonda’s Creative Life

I really can’t recommend the pattern enough for gifts this holiday season - they take very little fabric, are fast to sew, and would make perfect teacher gifts, hostess gifts, or presents for Aunties and Grandmas! 

Sewing for a Mini-Me

I’ve always avoided sewing baby clothes… but as my only niece turned 1 this fall, I thought it was high time I gave it a shot! Instead of going with the classic frilly baby dresses, I though I’d stick with what I know: Stretch pants and knit tops! 

For patterns I used two great basics from LouBee Clothing. The Hosh pants are pull-on pants for stretch wovens, with an ingenious adjustable elastic waistband. There is no side seam, so I also used the pattern to make leggings! I also used the Bimaa top pattern, which did the rounds on blog tours this fall. It’s basically a kid’s Renfrew tee, with options for a hoodie, cowl or shawl collar. 

Hosh Pants! I used the 5T width with the 12m length. Because of the adjustable buttonhole elastic in the back waistband, they should fit her for a good long while… and the hems are deep enough that I can let them out later if needed. The red and coral stretch denim are leftovers from pairs of jeans I made myself this summer, and the black is stretch twill I use to muslin my own pants. I’d already made her a solid black pair to test the sizing, so I added homemade bias tape as a tuxedo stripe to fancy these up! The blue ones are the only item I bought fabric for - it’s a lovely 4way stretch jeggings fabric! I took about about 2” of ease to make the pattern into leggings, and just did a normal elastic waistband. 

Eeee! Look at all the cute tops variations I got from just one pattern! All of these fabrics were in my stash or left from other projects. The hoodie and black+white top are made from double knit, and the others are jersey. Putting on the tiny cuff bands entertained me every time! I’d wear any one of these shirts myself, and I’m seriously considering scaling up the shawl-collar piece to make a Renfrew hack for myself!

The most satisfying thing for me is that together these clothes make a wearable, comfy mix-n-match wardrobe for my niece. The tops and pants all work together, which makes sense because they all fit my trusty colour palette! (Bonus sign of success? I hear today that my niece wore the leggings and coral striped top to meet Santa for the first time today! :) 

How do you feel about sewing kids clothes? I’d highly recommend the LouBee patterns to anyone looking to sew some simple kids clothes! I’ll be saving up my scraps so that i can make my niece some more clothes come summer!